You want to know how your material will react when you start to laser it, before you start on any major project.
Each type of timber will have a response all of its own, softwoods and hardwoods react differently too, it’s as if everything is conspiring to make the process difficult intentionally. Every piece of wood is going to have its own variances, so even if it looks exactly the same as another piece, it may react to the laser slightly differently. And like everyone else, I wish there was a list of settings I could find that would give me the exact details of what speed and power I need to use with all the different materials I can lay my hands on to produce that perfect finish – if anyone does find this elusive list, please, please, please let me know, it would save me a fortune in wasted materials.īut, until someone finds this list for me and believe me, I have scoured the internet looking for it, until then, I will have to stick to figuring it out each time and there are a few considerations that need taking into account as well. From wood to slate, glass to anodized aluminium, paper to acrylic, nothing in my house is safe these days. One of the things I like best about my Yora CNC Laser Engraving Machine 6550 is that I can use it on so many different materials. Stick with it and you will learn something that will prove useful, I promise. But, believe me, you will have missed the most important bits. If you want to cut to the chase and just read the list, it’s at the end. Having had such a nice reaction to my article on cutting settings with the Yora Laser Modules, I thought I’d resurrect and complete something I’d started writing a few months ago on burn settings.
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